Toledo to Chicago after church Sunday night, June 5. Stayed the night with Mud in Bartlett. Off to the northwest 8 A.M. Monday morning.
Through southern Wisconsin and La Crosse. The crossing of the Missisippi from La Crosse, Wisconsin to Winona, Minnesota was stunning. Neither coast has anything riparian approaching the grandeur of the Mississippi. I woke up the kids near midnight on the way home just so they'd have two memories of crossing the Mississippi.
Southern Minnesota was a treat. Northern Minnesota's Boundary Waters Canoe Area is my favorite wilderness on earth. But though I attended college in St. Paul, southern Minnesota always struck me as a wasteland. It's not. In early summer it's Edenic. The farms are beautiful, the fields green, the towns quiet like the western suburbs of Chicago in the sixties.
By Monday night we were into mid-South Dakota--one of the five states I'd never visited up till then. Eastern South Dakota was beautiful, bucolic in its hills and fields. We crossed the Lower Brule River at dusk. I wish it had been light. The river was beautiful in twilight and I'd like to have seen its full splendor. Overnight in a great little motel in Kadoka, South Dakota.

The Corn Palace in Mitchell S.D. It's a wash which is a better visit--the Corn Palace or the Badlands.
Tuesday the Badlands were our first order of business. Yuck. Unimpressive. I'd seen National Geographic-like pictures of Badlands cliffs and valleys and assumed them to be 1) high cliffs and canyons ala southern Utah, and 2) made of rock. Unnh unnh. Bleached clay and puny. Not worth more than an hour, though we gave it two. I can't emphasize enough the great disparity between my mental picture of the Badlands and the reality. Stunningly different. I had thought them majestic, like Polychrome Pass in Denali or the red rock canyons of Southern Utah--worthy of an entire week. They're hardly worth an hour.

The family atop one of the Badlands' measly mountains of mud.
On to Mt. Rushmore. The mountain looks like the pictures. Probably the best part of the visit is Rushmore's visitor's center which has been constructed with an Albert Speer-worthy dramatic majesty--columns, pillars, grey granite all leading up to the mountaintop temple of the great men. It's worth stopping to see the public architecture and Rushmore itself is free. Of course, the National Park Service sold the parking concession to a private company, which means you pay about $8 to park--but, in the small mercies category, the parking ticket, the attendants assure you, is good for a year. Don't try to give it to a friend, however. They somehow capture the digits of your license plate automatically and print them on the ticket as you're approaching the booth.
Final stop on Tuesday: Jewel Cave National Monument. Jewel is the second longest cave system in the United States (care to guess the longest?) with approximately 150 miles of explored caverns. Our National Park membership got us a free twenty-minute tour down the elevator in the visitor's center to a large cavern 200 feet below ground. We also reserved places on a "Lantern Tour" of the cave at 4:30 P.M. The lantern tour took us in the only discovered entrance to the cave, down steep old staircases, through dark caverns, well into the cave. Fantastic trip. Highly recommended. Skip the Badlands and do Jewel Cave.

Jewel Cave
After Jewel, we hightailed it to Sheridan, Wyoming, before stopping for the night.
More soon.